BIAB Manicures Are the Gel-Acrylic Hybrid You've Been Waiting For
"Builder in a Bottle" is the latest trend sweeping the nail industry.
While a good acrylic manicure will always be a favorite of mine in terms of looks and durability, it can wreak havoc on my natural nails—which is no fun, especially when I pay upwards of $200 for intricate art or my favorite summer nail trend. That's exactly why I began to look for something that sits in the sweet spot: gentler than acrylics but stronger than your average gel mani. Enter: BIAB nails.
Pronounced bee-yab in the salon world, BIAB—or Builder in a Bottle—is a form of nail enhancement that combines the benefits of gel manicure and acrylic. The term was coined and trademarked by The GelBottle Inc., the brand that created the original formula; however, the category has since expanded. Today, many of your favorite brands offer their own versions of what's often referred to as "builder gel" or "structured gel"—products designed to reinforce and protect the natural nail with a flexible, gel-like finish.
"Builder gel is basically an extra layer of protection for your nails," says New York-based celebrity nail artist, Shirley Cheng. "It allows the nails to stay durable between appointments without needing to fully remove the product every time, which helps preserve the health of the nail over time."
Ahead, everything you need to know about BIAB manicures from the nail experts utilizing the product daily.
What Are BIAB Nails?
Originally developed by The GelBottle Inc., BIAB is a soak-off builder gel that's applied similarly to gel polish but with a thicker viscosity. This thickness allows nail techs to sculpt an "apex," which helps strengthen the entire structure. "The apex is the natural curve of the nail and is thickest at the nail’s stress point," says Giorgia Cappella, Training and Education Manager at The GelBottle Inc. "Building an apex provides support and encourages nail growth."
While the GelBottle BIAB line is the OG, other companies like Orly have introduced their own builder formulas. Orly's version, aptly named Builder in a Bottle, functions similarly, offering a structured gel-like manicure that's designed to be gentler on the nail than acrylics or hard gel, like that used in a Russian manicure. "I've found that my clients' nails are much healthier since I started using builder gel," says Cheng. "There's less scraping, less filing, and no need for full removal at each appointment."
An assortment of the BIAB color selection at celebrity nail artist Julie K's Nail Artelier.
How Long Does BIAB Nails Application Take?
BIAB and other builder gels are applied like a gel polish, brushed onto the natural nail, and cured under a UV or LED lamp. However, the process takes a bit longer than your standard gel manicure. It includes nail prep, builder gel application (sometimes over a base coat like the BIAB rubber base, depending on the nail's condition), light sculpting of the apex, refining and shaping, and a final top coat.
The GelBottle recommends blocking off 90 minutes for a full set. That's fairly on par with other builder gel services—my own manicure with Orly's Builder in a Bottle took a bit over an hour.
How Much Do BIAB Nails Cost?
Prices vary depending on location and expertise, but generally, you can expect to pay between $40 and $80 for a builder gel manicure. That said, you have to factor in whether you're getting extensions or just an overlay on top of your natural nails.
"While BIAB may be more expensive than a traditional gel polish manicure, it is generally less expensive than other nail enhancement options like bio sculpture or hard gel," says nail technician Juanita Huber-Millet, who uses BIAB at her salon, Townhouse, in Los Angeles. "It also tends to last longer than gel polish, which can make it a more cost-effective option in the long run."
How Do You Remove BIAB Nails?
One of the major appeals of builder gel—whether from The GelBottle or other brands—is that you don't need to fully remove it at every appointment if you choose to do a fill. Instead, nail techs will often remove the previous color alongside any lifted areas, and then add a new layer of builder gel over the nail. This reduces the risk of over-filing or weakening the nail with repeated removals. "Since you're not removing the entire product each time, it's a lot gentler for most people," Cheng says.
If you choose to remove builder gel entirely, it is still considered a gentler process compared to alternatives like acrylic. The rubbery material of builder gel makes it more pliable and easier to remove. "The best way is to have a professional remove the majority, up to a thin base coat, with an e-file and soak off the rest with cotton soaked acetone wrapped in foil," explains nail artist Kaitlin Hughes.
Are BIAB Nails Better Than Acrylics?
It really comes down to personal preference, but many nail artists prefer BIAB and builder gel for its flexibility and ease of wear. "Builder gel is a great option for people who want to grow their natural nails gradually or just add a bit more strength," says Hughes, adding that you can keep the nails short or go longer with extensions—it works either way.
Unlike acrylics, which require more aggressive filing and may contain harsher ingredients, builder gel is generally easier to soak off and doesn't rely on primers or strong bonding agents. "I personally prefer to use BIAB over any other artificial nail enhancements because, while it does take some extra filing of the layer to remove it, at that point it soaks off just like gel," says Hughes.
Are BIAB Nails Better Than Traditional Gel?
Builder gels are thicker, stronger, and more durable than standard gel polish, which is part of why they're so popular. The key difference is structure; builder gels create a little apex to reinforce the nail, which helps it to stay intact longer.
"BIAB also contains ingredients that may help nourish and strengthen the nail, which allows the natural nails to grow longer and stronger," says Huber-Millet. In other words, if your nails are prone to bending, breaking, or peeling, builder gel may be up your alley.
Are BIAB Nails Healthy?
While BIAB nails help protect your natural nail, you still need to practice nail safety. Hughes says that clients should be aware not to pick at or peel up their BIAB, just like any other nail enhancement. "Especially since it is a more structured layer, it is going to be harder to peel off and therefore will do more damage to the natural nail if it isn’t removed properly," she says.
"The best way to maintain BIAB sets is to use cuticle oil at least once a day, and stay on schedule to have your nails rebalanced and filled (not fully removed) every three to four weeks to avoid any premature lifting," says Hughes. Cheng agrees: "The more cuticle oil, the better they last. I love Orly's orange-scented one."
My GelBottle Inc. BIAB Nails Experience
A before and after of a GelBottle Inc. BIAB manicure by NYC-based artist Tara Haye.
When it came to testing BIAB nails, the hardest part was picking a color. The rest was as simple as sitting down, sipping a seltzer, and letting my amazing nail artist (New York's Tara Haye) get to work.
While the process is a bit lengthy (the filing and refining step is still required), it goes by quickly because the color I chose was sheer enough to be built into the product. (You can choose darker gel color overlays, but they'll need to be painted over a clear BIAB base—this is because the colors need to be sheer enough to cure properly.) In fact, we had enough time for Haye to craft the cutest little cherries on my chocolate brown shorties. Hailey Bieber, farmers market nails, who?
Walking out of my appointment, I couldn't help but notice how strong my nails felt—there's no bending these babies. They're also as smooth to the touch as a traditional gel manicure and look pretty cute.
My Orly Builder in a Bottle Nails Experience
A before-and-after of an Orly Builder in a Bottle manicure with the shade Orly Hit the Gas by NYC-based artist, Shirley Cheng.
When it came to testing builder gel nails for myself, I chose Orly's Builder in a Bottle—both to explore a GelBottle alternative and because that's the formula one of my favorite nail artists uses (hi, Shirley Cheng). I have long nails naturally, but three had broken, so I also got to test the Builder in a Bottle on a few extensions.
The rest of the process was super streamlined: Clean-up, nail prep, structure-building, curing, and the application of the brightest, most fun red for summer (hi, Orly Hit The Gas). My nail artist gave me the most perfect manicure I've ever had—seriously, my nails were quite literally flawless.
The payoff was immediate. My nails felt unshakably strong, looked smooth as hell, and left me with zero temptation to peel or pick. Here I am three weeks later, and while there's a little grow-out (which is to be expected), the color and gel have remained perfectly intact. Consider me hooked on builder gel nails.
Why Trust Marie Claire
For more than 30 years, Marie Claire has been an internationally recognized destination for news, fashion and beauty trends, investigative packages, and more. When it comes to the products Marie Claire recommends, we take your faith in us seriously. Every product that we feature comes personally recommended by a Marie Claire writer or editor, or by an expert we’ve spoken to firsthand.
Meet the Experts
Shirley is an editorial and celebrity nail artist and the owner of Nail Plate Studio in New York. After working in some of NYC’s most popular salons, Shirley saw a void in how nail services are performed. Perfecting her craft includes a passion for teaching and continuing education in nails. This allowed her to become an educator for ORLY and Swarovski.
Shirley soon became a highly sought after manicurist for top tier magazines including Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, and Women’s Health. She is a regular backstage at New York Fashion Week and her work can be found walking down the red carpet at Met Gala and on the big and small screen. She is currently represented by See Management.
Juanita Huber-Millet launched Townhouse with one goal: to elevate the nail salon experience. Townhouse has thrown away the rulebook and reinvented it for the modern age, using years of industry research to perfect every aspect from start to finish. Say hello to flawless treatments, beautiful salons, and impeccable service that you can rely on every time.
A former marketing professional, Kaitlin Hughes is a nail artist based out of Minneapolis, MN. Her salon, The Group Chat, opened in June 2024.
Giorgia Cappella is Training and Education Manager at The GelBottle Inc with over six years experience as a nail technician and educator. Her years within the nail industry as a self-employed, full-time Nail Technician, alongside her time at TGB, have allowed Giorgia to continue to build upon her technical skills and expertise, while developing a full understanding of the industry, how products work, the science behind the formulations and the importance of clear guidance and best-in-class education.
