How to Use Retinol Like a Beauty Director—Zero Irritation, Dullness, or Fine Lines In Sight
Because good genes only get you so far.
Let me state here and now: I kinda won the skin lottery. My parents are genetically blessed in that department, with minimal fine lines and wrinkles and stellar bone structure, and thanks to the randomness of the universe, they passed those genes on to me. Still, any time someone compliments my skin, I make sure to both thank them and state that I put a lot of work into it. The epidermis you're born with can only get you so far, my friends. I’m out here doing the legwork to ensure that my skin legacy reaches its full, glowy, youthful potential. So, what is the secret to looking 25 when I’m actually 35? Well, there are a lot of factors, but if I had to pinpoint a singular product, I’d credit retinol.
You’ve likely heard of the buzzy ingredient somewhere on the internet by now. The vitamin A derivative is lauded by skincare influencers, beauty editors, and your dermatologist alike. It has the power to increase skin cell turnover, thereby minimizing the look of fine lines, dark spots, and rough skin texture, all of which can make you appear older. I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with aging (I love being in my mid-thirties, thank you very much), but I don’t necessarily want the evidence of my years in the sun and polluted air of New York City to show up on my face when there are plenty of options to minimize them. In addition to regular laser treatments, facials, and healthy lifestyle choices (yes, drinking more water and less booze can make a difference in your skin quality), I highly recommend adding a retinoid product into your skincare routine. Here’s how I incorporate my favorite retinols without the flaking or irritation that sometimes accompanies the ingredient.
Keep Your Cleanser Gentle
You don’t need to add a bunch of other active ingredients into your skincare routine when you’re using retinol. Doing so can overload your skin barrier and cause irritation, so keep the first part of your routine—cleansing—simple and straightforward.
I just adore this formula. It’s such a pleasure to use, from the texture to how efficiently it removes dirt, makeup, and oil from my skin without stripping it in the process.
My ultimate drugstore beauty secret? This flawless sensitive skin cleanser. I’ve recommended this to countless people struggling with irritation, from retinol or otherwise, and I never fail to hear a subsequent rave review.
Add Some Calming Products
There are a ton of soothing ingredients you can add to your skincare routine to lessen the possibility of retinol irritation. Niacinamide and centella asiatica (or Cica) are two of my go-tos to calm and strengthen the skin barrier.
Is there anything better than a soothing face mist? A spritz of this at your desk or in the morning helps to calm irritation quickly with minimal effort on your part. We love that!
Soothing, hydrating, a K-Beauty staple—what more could you ask for in a new serum? I especially love how quickly this absorbs into your skin for those busy mornings.
Start With Classic Retinol
There are many different types of retinoids, and one of the most gentle of the bunch is classic retinol. If you’re new to the ingredient, these are great to try first to see how your skin reacts.
A beauty editor favorite, this formula incorporates calming licorice extract and a very beginner-friendly one percent retinol to start you on your glow-boosting journey.
Anything with encapsulated retinol will be exceedingly gentle on the skin (it’s a time-release formula so you’re not getting the full strength all in one go) and this budget-friendly formula is one of my favorites.
Move up to Retinaldehyde
The next step before reaching a prescription-level retinoid is retinaldehyde, or retinal (no, that’s not a typo). This is ideal for hardy skin, experienced retinoid users, or anyone who wants to go all in for the maximum over-the-counter skin benefits from the start.
Ask any beauty editor what her or his favorite over-the-counter retinoid brand is and they’ll inevitably say Medik8. The formulas are clinically tested and work so well on the skin with fast results that rival a prescription.
This serum offers three different strengths, with 0.05% being the gentlest. Retinal newbies, this one is for you, and if your skin loves the formula, just level up with your next order.
Chat With Your Dermatologist for a Prescription
Tretinoin is the strongest retinoid option (and what I use most often) and is the proper gold standard when it comes to this category of products. You’ll need a rX to obtain this type of product, and your provider can suggest the ideal strength to start with on your new regimen.
I’ve ordered my customized tretinoin prescription through this digital dermatologist company for years, and I love that I can set up auto orders so I’m never without a bottle of the good stuff.
Founded by NYC dermatologist (who also treats Martha Stewart, for what it’s worth!) Dr. Dhaval Bhanusali, you can also obtain a prescription for your retinoid with this handy online pharmacy service.
Finish With a Barrier-Supporting Moisturizer
Retinoids have a tendency to dry out your skin so I highly recommend using a ceramide-rich moisturizer to lock in hydration and soften the skin as the active ingredient works its magic.
I’ll shout it from the rooftops from now until forever, but this is the perfect simple moisturizer, and a French pharmacy staple. I’m never without a bottle of this in my bathroom cabinet.
A new find and current obsession for my day and nighttime routines, this soothing moisturizer has the most beautiful texture and is top tier at minimizing irritation and dryness.
Don’t Forget SPF!
Sunscreen is non-negotiable when you’re using a retinoid product, even if you apply the latter at night (which is generally recommended). Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sun exposure, so stock up on your favorite SPF to protect your skin and keep those signs of premature aging at bay.
Obviously, I am obsessed with this sunscreen. I prefer to use mineral formulas to help prevent new melasma patches from forming, especially during the summer, and I’ve never found a US sunscreen that rubs in as seamlessly or feels as luxurious on the skin.
This brand new launch just hit the shelves last week and I am already enamored with it. The brand is a K-Beauty classic and it has been formulating products that can be shipped to the US (as opposed to the Korean formulas which can only be sold abroad due to FDA regulations). It leaves my skin dewy without clogging my pores and makes me feel like the best part of my skincare routine is the sunscreen—and that is rare to say.
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