Exclusive: Royal Fashion Historian Explains How Queen Elizabeth “Turned Diplomacy Into An Art Form” And “Did It Her Way”
“I think we still perhaps see that, in some contemporary, modern, royal clothing choices today, but done in a different way.”
Sartorial diplomacy—the art of using fashion as a diplomatic tool—is a very royal way of dressing. While First Ladies and female diplomats can use this soft diplomacy tool to their advantage, royal women seem to have a knack for sending messages of respect and patriotism with what they choose to wear.
Thanks to her lengthy, historic reign, and the modernization of news media, photography, and videography, Queen Elizabeth II was the first of her kind to master sartorial diplomacy with the way she dressed. In an exclusive conversation with Marie Claire, Caroline de Guitaut, Surveyor of The King's Works of Art, shares that “the idea of [fashion] diplomacy was something that she turned into an art form.”
Queen Elizabeth II wears gold, one of Australia's national colors, and a diamond wattle brooch, one of Australia's national symbols, as she arrives in Canberra.
Queen Elizabeth's Coronation Dress, featuring flowers from each of the countries within the United Kingdom as a diplomatic gesture.
“Because I've studied this collection for many decades, and, of course, royal fashion comes under my responsibility as Surveyor of The King's Works of Art, I'm used to seeing it,” Caroline de Guitaut says, reflecting that she sees examples of sartorial diplomacy everywhere within the late Queen’s wardrobe, “whether that was through colour, whether it was through technique, or materials, or a motif.” Queen Elizabeth was extremely thoughtful in her wardrobe choices, often choosing patterns, fabrics, or designs herself, and requesting certain themes or designs to be featured in her clothing.
“Queen Elizabeth II is the most traveled sovereign in British history, and undertaking overseas tours at the request of the government, which was something we saw her doing so much, particularly Commonwealth countries,” allowed the late Queen to show off her sartorial diplomacy skills all over the world, de Guitaut explains. Whether it was wattle in Australia, maple leaves in Canada, or a saree-inspired column dress in India, the Queen used fashion to send a message of respect, admiration, and acknowledgement to these countries and cultures.
Queen Elizabeth II wears red and white, Canada's national colours, and a maple leaf brooch on a 2010 visit to Ottawa.
Princess Kate also wears red and white, Canada's national colours, and the same maple leaf brooch on a 2011 visit to Canada.
“I think we still perhaps see that, in some contemporary, modern, royal clothing choices today, but done in a different way,” de Guitaut shares, explaining that modern royals like the Princess of Wales and Queen Camilla practice sartorial diplomacy, but not with the same aplomb as the late Queen. “I think The Queen did it her way, which was, I think, very, very special.”
Queen Elizabeth II’s sartorial diplomatic skills are featured in The Royal Collection Trust’s latest exhibit, Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style. From her tour ensembles to the intricate beading on her coronation gown, representing the different countries within the United Kingdom, her use of fashion as a diplomatic tool is evident in the curated display that Caroline de Guitaut and her team have created.
