Demna Gvasalia Just Unveiled His First Gucci Collection

September is a month full of fashion plot twists: Naomi Campbell striding down the Richard Quinn catwalk, Cher making an appearance at Valentino’s Studio 54 revival, and the quiet revelation that Rachel Scott joined Proenza Schouler months ago. It is, after all, the season when brands stake their claim in the spotlight. And yet, in perhaps the most unexpected move of all, Gucci has just unveiled its first lookbook under Demna Gvasalia—his debut since taking the reins as Creative Director earlier this year.

This is unusual. Demna’s first Gucci collection wasn’t anticipated until much later in the fashion calendar, and the heritage Italian house isn’t exactly known for sudden surprises. So, why now? According to the brand, the release is a prelude—“defining the aesthetic base upon which Demna’s Gucci vision will be built leading up to his first show in February,” the press release explains.

The prelude, titled Gucci: La Famiglia, is described as “a study of the ‘Gucciness’ of Gucci, an expression of the brand." Picture “framed portraits of an extended Gucci family,” featuring archetypes such as the party boy, la drama queen, incazzata—roughly translating to ‘pissed off’, though she appears more prim and proper than enraged—and la mecante, the patron. It’s a tongue-in-cheek exploration of Gucci’s clientele and how Demna intends to interpret them. Take incazzata, for instance, dressed in a “60s-style ‘little red coat’ that reflects her fiery demeanour”—certainly a sassy statement.

The reason for launching a look book now? Well, much speculation has surrounded how Demna—the co-founder of streetwear brand Vetements and the creative behind Balenciaga’s cult Triple S sneakers, Pantaleggings, and Michelle Yeoh’s viral ‘tin foil dress’—would translate his aesthetic into Gucci’s storied codes.

As La Famiglia makes clear, the answer is already taking shape. The surprise release itself feels signature Demna. And within the collection, his hallmarks emerge: an abundance of all-black looks in contrasting textures, flashes of vintage glamour, sequins destined for late nights, and witty flourishes (yes, we see you, knicker-clad Ragazzo).

And yet, it is unmistakably Gucci. “Heritage signatures are revisited and revived,” notes the brand, pointing to the Gucci Bamboo 1947 bag, the Horsebit loafer (an icon since 1953), the Flora motif, and the enduring GG Monogram—all woven confidently into the mix.

The result is a complete fusion of house codes and Demna’s distinctive vision—a clear signal of a new era. Early doubts over whether the designer was a natural fit for Gucci have all but disappeared, with social media comments already cheering in approval.

This article was originally published on Marie Claire UK.