Meryll Rogge's Fall 2026 Marni Debut Is for the Fashion Freaks and Geeks

Marni is meant to be a safe haven for the fashion freaks. The brand is both eclectic and chic—the clothing equivalent of the quirky, artsy girl in high school who smiled at you in the hallway but sat with the popular kids at lunch time.

One minute into Meryll Rogge’s Fall 2026 Marni debut, you could tell the newly appointed creative director gets this highly specific POV. The show, presented during Milan Fashion Week, opened with a shredded ivory top coat layered over a three-hole-punched pewter turtleneck and a jet black slip skirt covered in giant, grapefruit-sized pailettes. The look was weird, wonderful, and so very Marni.

For three decades, the Italian fashion house has brought a maximalist perspective to the industry's mainstage. Under Francesco Risso, who sat at the helm for ten years before Rogge joined, Marni pushed color, print, and texture to new frontiers. Canary yellow can be cool. Fur can be draped like silk if you just believe! Remember Hunter Schafer’s floral collaged and sticker dress? That was Marni by Risso.

Rogge—one of the few women currently designing for a luxury fashion house—wasted no time picking up where Rossi left off. The Belgian designer showed butter yellow nylon dresses with bubble hems; flannel boxer briefs fashioned into micro shorts; and multiple riffs on ribbed knee-high socks that looked standard from the shins down, but then transformed into pointed-toe Western booties at the feet. She also sees your sneakerina trend and raises you Frankenstein boots that are a feat of both fashion and science. This is a designer who understands that aspirational luxury fashion can still have a sense of humor, clearly.

You could say that Rogge has been training her entire career to take the Marni reins. She cut her teeth at Marc Jacobs and headed women’s design at Dries Van Noten, two free-spirited brands known for exaggerated proportions and fabulously unexpected color combinations. Her eclectic namesake label, founded in 2020, also regularly sweeps at fashion awards ceremonies. Just two weeks before her Marni appointment last July, Rogge took home the prestigious ANDAM Prize (and the 300,000 euros it comes with) for her funky cutout trousers and double-stacked cardigans.

Moreover, Rogge is an obvious student of the brand. “I’m just trying to do what’s right for this house more than trying to understand what’s been done elsewhere,” Rogge told Vogue two days ahead of her debut collection. “This house always had an independent character, and that’s how we approached it.” The supersized sequins and hole cutouts featured throughout her introductory collection were homages to Marni’s signature polka dot motifs, done the Rogge way. The same goes for her shaggy faux fur outerwear: Marni was originally a fur-only label and an offshoot of founder Consuelo Castiglioni’s family fur business, after all.

It’s a full-circle moment for a brand founded by a female designer to once again have a woman in charge. (Castiglioni launched Marni in 1994 and remained creative director until 2016, when she then passed the baton to Rossi.) Rogge at the helm returns the fashion house to its roots and—hopefully!—signals the start of a domino effect in the industry's hiring practices.

At the very least, it's a natural appointment. Not only can Rogge provide the maximalist punch that gives Marni its juice, but she also has that keen understanding of what women want to wear, which often only comes from being one yourself. Women designing freaky, fun clothes for women? Now that has a nice ring to it…

Marni Fall 2026

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