The Style Lesson I Learned From Having (And Losing) a Big Bust

Back in the 80’s, everything was BIG. The hair, the shoulders, the sweatshirts. Fashion was loud and extra. (CBK would not have enjoyed it!) I was a freshman in high school in 1984, and I was sporty and fairly petite. I was into clothes, and I felt like I knew how to dress—until I didn’t. Between my freshman and sophomore year, my chest went from a double A to a double D. Getting dressed suddenly went from being an expression to being a strategy, and I didn’t like it one bit.

My solution—and what happened to be on point in the fashion world at the time—was to go BIG, a.k.a. to hide. Oversized blazers, slouchy knits, anything that skimmed rather than acknowledged. It technically worked if the goal was to get swallowed up and look 15 pounds heavier. Nailed it! I disappeared under a sea of fabric, which, given my discomfort with being the newfound object of boys’ gazes, was okay. For a time.

At the age of 19, I had a breast reduction. And in my mind, this was going to be The Great Unlock. Clothes would fall differently. Everything would be easier. Chicer. I’d get to wear what the models were wearing and look exactly like them! (Hah hah hah) To a small degree, it was sort of true. Certain silhouettes—slip dresses, bias cuts, and chunky sweaters looked so different and so good.

But here’s what I didn’t expect: I lost something, too. Because a fuller chest, when dressed well, brings its own kind of magic. I’ve tried on many a top and dress now, and they look almost comical and deflated. There are just certain cuts and fabrics that are designed to celebrate a curve, not lie flat. Thank God!

The key when dressing for a larger bust is not to hide but to edit. Embrace structure like well-cut blazers that define the waist rather than swallow it. V-necks, whether that’s in T-shirts or sweaters, are much preferred over a crewneck any day of the week. Stay clear of too much volume in pants and skirts (and sleeves on shirts!). Straighter skirts, slim-fitting trousers, and finer, less cumbersome fabrics will keep an outfit from looking like it’s fighting itself for the spotlight.

Also, use your accessories! Bring out belts to cinch the waist or at least draw attention to another part of your body.

And lastly, monochrome is one of your best allies. If you want to be in a flowy, oversized outfit, a loose-fitting blazer and pants in the same color with a V-neck tee underneath is a great option.

For the smaller-chested club, shapeless dresses like slip dresses are good, or high-neck and backless ones are also fun (since a bra may not be an absolute requirement). You can lean into delicacy, like with tiny straps and whisper-thin silk and cotton, and play with thick, nubby knits or volume on top without it overwhelming the entire frame. You can also try a more androgynous look through sharp tailoring and straight lines. But if you’re feeling unfeminine in doing so, add a heel, undone hair, and some great lipstick.

The funny thing now, when I look back, having been both a large and small-chested girl, is that style isn’t about correcting yourself in order to be easier to dress. It’s about understanding what you have—and then deciding how you want to show it. Keep scrolling to shop a selection of clothes I've pulled that work for both large and small chests.

Best Clothes for a Smaller Bust

Best Clothes for a Large Bust