Hi everyone, I’m Tariro Makoni, author of Trademarked on Substack. Welcome back to my column, Status Symbols, where we track the convergence of data, personal allegiance, and observational momentum.
As we transition into fall, I’ve been thinking a lot about what makes the perfect sweater. I’ve come to the conclusion that the real answer is: It depends. Why? It varies based on the type of sweater you’re discussing. For example, if you’re wearing baggy jeans, is the ideal sweater oversized and slouchy or snug and slightly cropped (e.g., the baby tee of sweaters)? The answer is that both work, so your scope of measurement becomes irrelevant.
If you’re like me, you might have a follow-up question: What types of sweaters would I even need to hit the quota for that elusively perfect fall wardrobe? Well, now we’re cooking. This line of questioning led me to spend some time observing and talking to a group of women I know better than anyone else (with a viral phrase I coined to match): the Elusive (International) Hot Girls (EIHGs). These women are aspirationally global, chic, and are always jetting “between” locations—they’re everywhere, yet nowhere, and impossible to pin down. Given their broad exposure, they’re also a consistent bellwether for what’s Up Next. When EIHGs start converging on something, it’s usually worth paying attention to.
Naturally, EIHGs are the best source to turn to when building a fall sweater lineup that’s cohesive, elevated, and still a little playful. I’ve spent this month learning what kinds of sweaters they’re wearing, and which ones make a look feel most complete. In doing so, I’ve created a capsule framework that I believe is both Mutually Exclusive and Collectively Exhaustive. (MECE, for my consultants—take that, McKinsey!)
An EIHG Guide to Building a Fall Sweater Capsule Collection
Step one: You’ll need just one sweater from each of the following categories: The Polo; Chunky, Oversize Crewnecks; and Tissue-Thin Knits.
Step two: You’re done!
Well, not exactly. Let’s break down what makes each sweater type an essential, with my favorite examples, ahead.
The Polo Sweater
I don’t know if EIHGs are so loyal to the polo sweater because of prep school trauma or, for true millennials, because of a deep childhood crush on JFK Jr…. but their loyalty to this sweater variant knows no bounds. I think the trick with a polo sweater is that it perfectly balances a relaxed ease with just enough structure, so you never look too slouchy or too formal. Goldilocks, if you will!
Pictured: The Khaite Rene Cashmere Polo Sweater.
I’m really into the '70s styling I’m seeing on EIHGs lately, when they have a more closely fitted polo worn with a sheer tinted pair of JMM sunnies and a flare jean. I also see a lot of EIHGs at the airport in an oversize polo (like this one), worn with leggings and crew socks and a very thick cashmere scarf thrown around their neck.
A stealth EIHG pick, there’s something so plush and divine about this polo sweater. It’s also priced gorgeously with so many darling color choices—I want them all.
I love how this polo threads the needle between loungewear (or plane attire) and dinner wear. You see it or you don’t, but when you do, you’ll need this sweater immediately.
Slinky, silky, and COOL. A breathable silk and cashmere sweater that is as easy for a meeting as it is for a Wednesday dinner. I would know: I wear mine weekly!
A cheeky one that does the layering for you! Throw on jeans and a loafer, and prepare yourself for as many compliments as possible.
If you’re one of the EIHGs reviving the polo based on your crush on JFK Jr., now’s your time to act. This oversize, striped cashmere number evokes the same energy as being bestowed an Asscher cut engagement ring.
I’d bet a lot of cash on this: if there’s one polo sweater EIHGs have in common, it’s the Khaite one I'm wearing above. The billowy, exaggerated sleeves almost give this sweater an eclectic twist. When coupled with the bouncy and plush cashmere that’s been perfected by Khaite, you have a subtle masterpiece.
The Chunky, Oversized Crewneck
I considered just describing this category as "The Row Ophelia" and calling it a day. This style of thick crewneck (typically in wool or cashmere) is EIHG canon. Worn on travel days, whilst running errands, or for school-kid pickups, its elegance is found in its undone and boyishly oversize fit.
Pictured: The Row Ophelia Sweater.
Great with leggings, sneakers and crew socks, cigarette jeans and Chanel flats, or a full volume, wide-leg jean and loafers, you simply can’t go wrong. Tip: Keep your hair tucked in with wispy layers peaking out for maximum, Olsen-coded effect!
The Ophelia is as recognizable to a certain set (that is, EIHGs and their celeb friends) as the LV monogram is to the rest of the world. A dizzying category definer that exists in a league of its own, there’s just something about the dramatic proportions of the sleeves, the perfect ribbing of the collar and trim, and the sheer thickness of the wool—it’s almost more blanket than sweater (snuggie?). No one else has gotten it just so right…I have it in an EIHG-approved gray and will NOT be looking back.
Just in case shilling $1,500 for a sweater makes you nauseous (I get it), EIHG-beloved Co makes an excellent boyfriend crew in a supple wool and cashmere blend.
La Ligne’s Marin sweater is viral for a reason. While it’s a 7-ply wool and cashmere blend, it’s still sliiightly less bulky than the Ophelia. Priced solidly, it’s quickly become an EIHG-preferred pick for long haul flights or those messy toddler birthday parties.
If the Ophelia excites you, but the sheer volume terrifies you, I’d recommend Lisa Yang’s Sonny. It's still boxy, but slightly cropped. An EIHG beloved brand for a reason, Lisa Yang is expert-level at cashmere (dare I say the best in the game?).
Cos makes another Ophelia-inspired sweater that I hear EIHGs buy in bulk. I mean, when it’s good, it’s good.
I'm absolutely obsessed with this pick from another EIHG-core brand. Dare I say, it’s the best non-Ophelia-Ophelia on the market. The knit is supple and luxurious, while still maintaining that chunky, oversize, your-boyfriend’s-but-better that the Ophelia perfects. I’d buy this one if I didn’t have the Ophelia already.
Tissue-Thin Knits
It is a truth universally acknowledged that EIHGs have mastered the art of layering. However, I’ve observed that the aces in their pockets are an arsenal of tissue-thin sweaters at their disposal: the perfect base that adds texture without adding bulk. These sweaters are incredibly versatile, because they also provide that elevated-yet-cozy look for a date night or a late Thursday dinner with the girls (very Morgan Stewart McGraw). And, for a set of women known as always-travelers, these sweaters are perfect because they take up SO LITTLE space in a suitcase.
To nail the look, you can be the cool girl who wears a white tee underneath and a Le Sundial tassel necklace on top, or with another (slightly thicker) cashmere sweater tied around your shoulders or around your waist. You can also wear one with your favorite lace bra for a lil peak-a-boo, best accompanied by a glass of Margaux.
Starting with a sweater designed by the EIHG’s favorite EIHG: Morgan Stewart McGraw. Renggli nails the buttery, slightly sheer, and perfectly fitted cashmere crewneck that screaaams for a cigarette jean and a perfect pair of The Row loafers.
There aren't enough words in the English language to describe the perfection of the Everlane sweater I'm wearing above. It’s perfectly sheer, the alpaca adds just a touch of texture that elevates every outfit, and it layers so well. The proof is in the pudding: I own four of them.
Another EIHG fave (as passed down by their moms), Joseph’s cashair crewneck is perfectly sheer and constructed of the most glorious and soft cashmere. I, alongside many an EIHG, own this one in matcha. There’s a sultrier V-neck that is also perfect for a fall date-night. You just can’t go wrong!
I fear this is the holy grail of the silk and cashmere tissue-thin sweaters. The Row’s version is knit so finely, yet somehow still feels like you’re being enveloped by a cloud. It’s...perfect.
Still tissue-thin, but providing a smidge more coverage, this Co cashmere knit is as buttery as it is plush. It’s the kind of sweater that would've lined the wardrobe of The Parent Trap’s Elizabeth James…. and I think that’s all I need to say to underscore both its virtue and its lore.
