Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy Minimalism On the Runway? Oh, We're So Back

Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy's particular flavor of minimalism has been a staple on mood boards for decades, pretty much since she first started getting papped in New York City in the '90s. Much ink has been spilled about its enduring appeal, and the advent of quiet luxury and an upcoming Ryan Murphy FX series have only reignited the public's fascination with the late fashion publicist's style. Those entrenched in her sartorial lore, though, have long known the brands she favored: Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang, Yohji Yamamoto, Narciso Rodriguez, and Jil Sander.

That last one is entering a new era under Simone Bellotti, a beloved Italian designer who cut his teeth on Gucci's menswear team and stepped into the spotlight by transforming Bally into a fashion-editor favorite. (Even if you don't know his name, you know his shoes.) His appointment to Jil Sander—a label that has championed a less-is-more approach to luxury—is a match made in fashion heaven. His speciality, after all, is simplicity with a twist, drawing a sharp and refined silhouette, working with a tight but impactful color palette, and never over-accessorizing.

In his first collection for the brand, presented during Milan Fashion Week, Bellotti is staying true to this legacy. Model Guinevere van Seenus opened the Spring 2026 show wearing a white pencil skirt—a nod to her Craig McDean-shot Jil Sander campaign from 1996. Three decades later, the look feels clean and fresh, styled with a purplish-blue shrunken cropped sweater, navy tights, and pointed-toe leather Oxford shoes. It also establishes a sort of thesis for the season (and, potentially, Bellotti's tenure): You don't need more than five pieces to build an impactful wardrobe.

The Jil Sander Spring 2026 offering illustrates how a few key, versatile items can go a long way. You don't need to do too much when your go-to coat has a rounded shoulder that curves into the sleeve, a tight nip at the waist, and made out of a striking purple boiled wool or creamy white leather. A pair of leggings-tight grey trousers look just as good with an oversized butter-yellow leather blazer as they do with a layered cropped purple knit and yellow mock neck, or a grey open-front peplum top with a metallic beaded bralette. A sports bra-esque racerback crop top? You can style it with tailored black trousers (with a cheeky slit at the waist, because there's always a twist) and Oxfords or with a fine layered pleat midi and heels.

Because the collection was co-ed—womenswear and menswear shown together—you can also see how gender-neutral these pieces can be, the collared jackets, layered knits, and button-ups, especially. It makes the case for going in on the pre-order with a partner, a sibling, or a friend. Sharing is caring, right?

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